1979 MG Other for sale $7,400

1979 MG Other $7,400
Car Ad from: Hemmings View Original Ad
Price: $7,400
Contact: View Original Ad from Hemmings
Location: Macon, GA
Details: _____________________________________

PRICE DROPS $100 EVERY MONDAY ! ! !
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Dropped to $9,100 on 10/10/2016

Dropped to $8,700 on 10/31/2016

$7,800 on 01/02/2017

$7,400 on 01/30/2017

FOR SALE: 1979 MGB Roadster

Runs great (Really! Read following write-up)

Dont let this car fool you. It has been restored to original horsepower of early model MGBs. The 79 B came with a single carburetor, catalytic converter and exhaust air pump. Horsepower was an abysmal 62.5. This car (like Bs from the 60s) has dual SU Carbs and factory downpipe exhaust and properly tuned (as it is) produces around 90hp. Very spunky. Very fun to drive.

Contact me at ntwj99 [ email ]

Read below for full details:

First of all, I restore cars to drive and enjoy. I enjoy the work. I enjoy the satisfaction of fixing things and knowing they are correct and operate well. I like making the mechanical details work properly. And, I enjoy driving with the top down (all I buy is convertibles).

I have rebuilt and sold a 1978 VW Bug Convertible and a 1965 Mustang. Both convertibles.

I keep each car several years so I get very familiar with all its issues. (I kept the Mustang for 11 years)

I have now completed this 1979 MGB. This is by far the funnest to drive so far.

Whenever I start a new project car, I go through a defined procedure. First is make it run well and safe to drive. Then I work through the details to make it a pleasure to drive.

I purchased the MG in Atlanta and drove it home to Macon. About 90 miles. It drove ok but hesitated when transitioning from downhill (foot off the gas) to uphill (foot on the gas).

That was part of the first challenge. Getting it to run well. I was unfamiliar with British cars and especially SU carbs. I read all I could find. The initial solution was simple. I found that SU carbs have a dampener on top that needs a little 20 weight oil. That did wonders. Also set timing, other tune-up items. Drove 100% better.

Then I changed the oil in the engine, transmission and differential. Also, a full lube job of all grease fittings.

Then, Safety.

Brakes were bad. It would stop but required tons of pedal pressure. The 79 B has power assisted brakes but I felt no assistance at all. Found a missing rubber seal in the power assist servo. This was causing a vacuum leak. That helped but still not good.

Checked brake components. Decided to replace all. Installed new master cylinder, new pads and calipers in front, shoes and cylinders in back, all new braided brake lines.

Brakes were much better but still didnt seem perfect. I kept thinking it had to be a vacuum issue in the power assist.

Also, it continued to not run as well as I would like. It ran ok at higher RPMs but badly at idle. I checked spark, fuel, etc.

Also, could never get the fuel mixture of the carbs to adjust properly and the choke never was as effective as it should be.

The test that gave the best clue was disconnecting each spark plug wire while it ran. I disconnected the wire to cylinder 1 while idling. Didnt change much. Then cyl 2. Still didnt change much. Then cyl 3. Engine almost cut off. Same with cyl 4.

So, no change when disconnecting cyls 1 and 2 but drastic change when disconnecting cyls 3 and 4. It has dual carbs servicing cylinders 1,2 and 3,4 so had to be an issue with carb #1.

Pulled the carbs to perform a rebuild. While off, checked the intake manifold. Found the problem! Intake manifold gasket had cracked with several missing pieces allowing a huge vacuum leak. Replaced the gasket (on both carbs intakes while there). Put it all back together and it ran like a brand new engine.

This, by correcting the vacuum leak, also corrected the brake issue. The car actually has power brakes now.

Also, I was able to effectively adjust the fuel mixture so balanced